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Watchmaking Guide
Understanding a watch before choosing it
Movement, crystal, case, dimensions, water resistance, complications, and maintenance: this guide explains the main terms you will encounter on a product page to help you compare watches using concrete criteria.
01 · The heart of the watch
Different types of movements
The movement, also called a caliber, is the mechanism that makes the watch function. It produces or receives energy, regulates it, and then drives the hands and any potential complications. Three major families are common: quartz, automatic mechanical, and manual-winding mechanical.
Quartz
A battery provides electrical energy. A quartz crystal oscillator acts as a frequency reference, and an electronic circuit and stepper motor then control the advancement of the hands on an analog watch.
Key takeaways: generally very accurate, practical for daily wear, less sensitive to the watch’s position, and requires little routine maintenance.
Trade-off: the battery must be replaced when depleted, except for certain special rechargeable architectures.
Illustrated example: Ronda 6004-D. Real photo under CC BY-SA 4.0 license.
Automatic mechanical
Energy is stored in a mainspring. An oscillating weight, called a rotor, rotates with the movement of the wrist and gradually winds this spring. The gear train then transmits the energy to the escapement and the regulating organ.
Power reserve: when the watch is no longer worn, it continues to run for a limited time corresponding to the energy still stored.
Example: the ETA 2824-2 is a well-known Swiss automatic caliber, running at 4 Hz / 28,800 vibrations per hour, with 25 jewels and approximately 42 hours of typical power reserve.
Real photo of an ETA 2824, CC BY-SA 2.0. The illustration is educational and does not mean this caliber equips every watch sold on Octant Watch.
Manual-winding mechanical
Here, no rotor automatically recharges the mainspring. The owner winds the watch by turning the crown, generally at regular intervals depending on the caliber's power reserve.
Why appreciate it: for the more direct connection to the mechanism, the ritual of winding, and, depending on the design, a visually simpler architecture since there is no rotor obscuring part of the movement.
Illustrated example: 6497-type manual mechanical movement. Real photo under CC BY-SA 2.0 license.
| Criterion |
Quartz |
Automatic |
Manual |
| Energy source |
Battery / electrical source |
Mainspring + rotor |
Mainspring wound via crown |
| Usage |
Very simple for daily wear |
Winds while being worn |
Voluntary and regular winding |
| Accuracy |
Generally superior |
Depends on the caliber and regulation |
Depends on the caliber and regulation |
| Maintenance |
Battery + water resistance check as needed |
Mechanical service according to manufacturer / usage |
Mechanical service according to manufacturer / usage |
02 · Construction
Case, finishes, and crystal
The case protects the movement and contributes significantly to the weight, comfort, and visual appeal. The crystal protects the dial. These are two distinct elements that should be compared separately.
Stainless steel
Very common in watchmaking for its good balance of strength, corrosion resistance, ease of finishing, and cost. It can be polished, brushed, or combine multiple finishes.
Titanium
Prized above all for its lightness and comfort on the wrist. Its appearance is often more matte or technical than that of highly polished steel.
PVD / DLC coating
This is a treatment or surface coating applied to the base material to achieve a specific color or surface properties. Therefore, it is not, on its own, the structural material of the case.
The main types of crystals
Sapphire crystal
Highly resistant to daily scratches. An anti-reflective coating can be added to improve readability. Like any hard glass, it is not indestructible against a significant impact.
Mineral crystal
An intermediate solution widely used: more economical than sapphire and suitable for many daily uses.
Acrylic crystal
Softer and therefore more prone to scratches, but light and associated with many vintage-inspired watches. Some brands allow for the polishing of small surface marks.
03 · Proportions
Understanding a watch's dimensions
The diameter alone is not enough to determine if a watch will look small or large. Two 40mm models can have a very different presence depending on the length of the lugs, the thickness, the dial opening, or the shape of the case.
Diameter
Main width of the case, generally measured without the crown.
Lug-to-lug
Distance between the ends of the top and bottom lugs. Very useful for estimating if the watch will overhang the wrist.
Thickness
Influences the presence on the wrist and how it slides under a cuff or shirt.
Lug width
Width of the strap at its attachment point to the case. Important if you plan to change straps.
Octant Watch Tip: do not choose a watch solely based on a "men's" or "women's" category. Above all, compare its proportions with your wrist size and with a watch whose comfort you are already familiar with.
04 · Water & pressure
Understanding water resistance
An indication in meters, bar, or ATM corresponds to a resistance level defined by the manufacturer and tested under precise conditions. It should not be interpreted as the depth to which you can systematically use the watch. Authorized activities depend on the model, its design, and the recommendations of its brand.
| Common indication |
Conservative reading |
Mandatory check |
| 3 bar / 3 ATM |
Splashes and light daily use |
Avoid swimming unless stated otherwise by the manufacturer |
| 5 bar / 5 ATM |
Some brands authorize regular swimming |
Always follow the manual for the specific model |
| 10 bar / 10 ATM |
Level generally more suitable for aquatic activities |
Nature of the activity and brand recommendations |
| 20 bar / 20 ATM |
High resistance, often intended for more sustained aquatic use |
Do not automatically confuse with a dive watch certification |
| 200 m Dive watch |
Specific category when explicitly designated as such by the manufacturer |
Standard, crown, pushers, and model instructions |
Best practices: ensure the crown is correctly pushed in or screwed down before contact with water. Avoid operating the crown and pushers underwater, unless the manufacturer explicitly indicates that the system allows it. Steam, significant temperature variations, and very hot water can also stress the seals.
05 · Functions
What is a complication?
In mechanical watchmaking, a complication is generally defined as any function added to the basic display of hours, minutes, and seconds. In common commercial language, the term is also used more broadly to describe a watch’s additional functions.
Date
Displays the calendar date, often in a window.
Day-date
Adds the day of the week to the date.
Chronograph
Allows you to measure elapsed time using start, stop, and reset functions.
GMT / second time zone
Displays a second reference time, useful when traveling or for tracking another time zone.
Moon phase
Shows the evolution of the lunar cycle on the dial.
Power reserve
Indicates approximately how much mechanical energy remains before the watch stops.
Small seconds
Seconds are displayed on a separate sub-dial rather than by a large central hand.
06 · Comfort
Choosing the right strap
Leather
Elegant and comfortable after a few wears. Generally, you should limit prolonged exposure to water and perspiration to preserve its lifespan.
Steel
Robust and versatile. The right fit depends on the number of links and, depending on the clasp, potential micro-adjustments.
Rubber
Very suitable for sports and water-based activities, provided the watch itself has the necessary water resistance.
Textile
Lightweight, casual, and easy to swap on many models. Drying time depends on the material.
07 · Origin & selection
What about the "Swiss Made" label?
The Swiss Made label is an indication of origin regulated by Swiss law. On its own, it does not describe the type of movement, level of finish, or positioning of a watch: these criteria must be studied separately.
08 · Durability
Maintaining your watch properly
Mechanical watch
Follow the service interval recommended by the manufacturer rather than a universal rule. Abnormal timekeeping, a sharp drop in power reserve, or irregular operation may warrant a check-up.
Quartz watch
Have a dead battery replaced without unnecessary delay. If the case is opened, it is worth checking the gaskets and, for a watch intended for water use, its water resistance.
Cleaning
Use a soft cloth. For a more thorough cleaning, consider the strap material and the watch's water resistance level before using water.
Magnetism & shocks
Avoid unnecessary shocks and strong magnetic fields, which can affect certain mechanical movements. Sudden timekeeping issues may sometimes require a diagnosis or demagnetization.
09 · Before buying
The checklist for comparing two watches
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Movement: quartz, automatic, or manual? What is the power reserve if it is mechanical?
-
Dimensions: do the diameter, lug-to-lug, and thickness suit your wrist?
-
Crystal: sapphire, mineral, or acrylic?
-
Water resistance: does it truly match your activities?
-
Functions: do you need a date, a chronograph, a second time zone, or do you prefer a cleaner dial?
-
Strap: is it suitable for your use and easily adjustable or replaceable?
-
Style: finally, choose the watch you truly want to wear, rather than just the one with the longest technical specs.
You now know the essentials
Use these criteria to compare the models in our selection, then consult each watch's profile for its exact specifications.
Discover our watches
Movement illustration creditsRonda 6004-D: VSchagow, Wikimedia Commons,
CC BY-SA 4.0.
ETA 2824: Guy Sie, Wikimedia Commons,
CC BY-SA 2.0.
Manual movement type 6497: Guy Sie, Wikimedia Commons,
CC BY-SA 2.0.
The illustrated movements serve as educational examples and do not indicate the caliber found in every reference sold by Octant Watch.
