Watchmaking guide

Understanding a watch before choosing it

Movement, crystal, case, dimensions, water resistance, complications and maintenance: this guide explains the main terms you will encounter on a product sheet to help you compare watches using concrete criteria.

01 · The heart of the watch

The different types of movement

The movement, also known as the calibre, is the mechanism that powers the watch. It generates or receives energy, regulates it, then drives the hands and any complications. Three main families are common: quartz, automatic mechanical, and hand-wound mechanical.

Real example of a Ronda 6004-D Swiss quartz movement

Quartz

A battery provides electrical energy. A quartz oscillator serves as a frequency reference, then an electronic circuit and a stepper motor control the advancement of the hands on an analog watch.

Key points: generally very accurate, convenient for daily use, not very sensitive to the watch's position, and requiring little routine maintenance.

Disadvantage: the battery must be replaced when exhausted, except for specific rechargeable designs.

Illustrated example: Ronda 6004-D. Real photo under CC BY-SA 4.0 license.

Real example of an ETA 2824 automatic mechanical movement

Automatic mechanical

Energy is stored in a mainspring. An oscillating weight, called a rotor, rotates with wrist movements and gradually winds this spring. The gear train then transmits the energy to the escapement and the regulating organ.

Power reserve: when the watch is no longer worn, it continues to operate for a limited duration corresponding to the energy still stored.

Example: the ETA 2824-2 is a well-known Swiss automatic calibre, operating at 4 Hz / 28,800 vibrations per hour, with 25 jewels and approximately 42 hours of typical power reserve.

Real photo of an ETA 2824, CC BY-SA 2.0. The illustration is for educational purposes and does not mean this calibre is found in every watch sold on Octant Watch.

Real example of a 6497 type hand-wound mechanical movement

Hand-wound mechanical

Here, no rotor automatically recharges the mainspring. The owner winds the watch by turning the crown, usually at regular intervals depending on the calibre's power reserve.

Why appreciate it: for the more direct connection to the mechanism, the winding ritual, and, depending on the design, a visually simpler architecture since there is no rotor obscuring part of the movement.

Illustrated example: 6497 type hand-wound mechanical movement. Real photo under CC BY-SA 2.0 license.

Criterion Quartz Automatic Manual
Energy source Battery / electrical source Mainspring + rotor Mainspring wound via the crown
Usage Very simple for daily use Winds by wearing it Intentional and regular winding
Accuracy Generally superior Depends on the calibre and adjustment Depends on the calibre and adjustment
Maintenance Battery + water resistance check as needed Mechanical service as per manufacturer / use Mechanical service as per manufacturer / use

02 · Construction

Case, finishes and crystal

The case protects the movement and significantly contributes to the weight, comfort, and visual appeal. The crystal protects the dial. These are two distinct elements that should be compared separately.

Stainless steel

Very common in watchmaking for its good balance between strength, corrosion resistance, ease of finishing, and cost. It can be polished, brushed, or combine several finishes.

Titanium

Appreciated mainly for its lightness and comfort on the wrist. Its appearance is often more matte or technical than that of highly polished steel.

PVD / DLC coating

This is a surface treatment or coating applied to the base material to achieve a specific color or surface properties. Therefore, it is not, by itself, the structural material of the case.

The main types of crystal

Sapphire crystal

Very resistant to everyday scratches. An anti-reflective coating can be added to improve readability. Like any hard glass, it is not indestructible against a significant impact.

Mineral crystal

An intermediate solution widely used: more economical than sapphire and suitable for many daily uses.

Acrylic crystal

Softer and thus more prone to scratches, but lightweight and associated with many vintage-inspired watches. Some brands allow small superficial marks to be polished out.

03 · Proportions

Understanding watch dimensions

The diameter alone is not enough to determine whether a watch will appear small or large. Two 40mm models can have a very different presence depending on the lug length, thickness, dial opening, or case shape.

Diameter
Main width of the case, usually measured without the crown.
Lug-to-lug
Distance between the tips of the upper and lower lugs. Very useful for estimating if the watch will overhang the wrist.
Thickness
Influences wrist presence and how it fits under a cuff or shirt.
Lug width
Width of the strap where it attaches to the case. Important if you plan to change straps.
Octant Watch tip: do not choose a watch based solely on a "men's" or "women's" category. Instead, compare its proportions with your wrist size and with a watch whose comfort you already know.

04 · Water & pressure

Understanding water resistance

An indication in meters, bar, or ATM corresponds to a resistance level defined by the manufacturer and tested under precise conditions. It should not be interpreted as the depth at which you can systematically use the watch. The permitted activities depend on the model, its design, and the brand's recommendations.

Common indication Prudent interpretation Must be checked
3 bar / 3 ATM Splashes and light daily use Avoid swimming unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer
5 bar / 5 ATM Some brands allow ordinary swimming Always follow the instructions for the exact model
10 bar / 10 ATM Level generally more suitable for water activities Nature of activity and brand recommendations
20 bar / 20 ATM High resistance, often intended for more sustained water use Do not automatically confuse with a diving watch certification
Diving watch 200 m Specific category when explicitly designated as such by the manufacturer Standard, crown, pushers, and model instructions
Good practices: ensure the crown is properly pushed in or screwed down before contact with water. Avoid manipulating the crown and pushers underwater, unless the manufacturer explicitly states that the system allows it. Steam, significant temperature variations, and very hot water can also stress the seals.

05 · Functions

What is a complication?

In mechanical watchmaking, a complication generally refers to a function added to the basic display of hours, minutes, and seconds. In common commercial language, the term is also used more broadly to describe a watch's additional functions.

Date

Displays the date, often in an aperture.

Day-date

Adds the day of the week to the date.

Chronograph

Allows elapsed time to be measured with a start, stop, and reset function.

GMT / Second Time Zone

Displays a second reference time, useful for travel or tracking another time zone.

Moon Phase

Represents the evolution of the lunar cycle on the dial.

Power Reserve

Approximately indicates the remaining mechanical energy before the watch stops.

Small Seconds

Seconds are displayed on a separate sub-dial rather than by a large central hand.

06 · Comfort

Choosing the right strap

Leather

Elegant and comfortable after a few wears. It is generally advisable to limit prolonged exposure to water and sweat to preserve its lifespan.

Steel

Robust and versatile. The correct fit depends on the number of links and, depending on the clasp, possible micro-adjustment.

Rubber

Very suitable for sports and aquatic activities when the watch itself has the required water resistance.

Textile

Light, casual, and easy to change on many models. Drying time depends on the material.

07 · Origin & Selection

What about the Swiss Made label?

The Swiss Made label is an indication of origin regulated by Swiss law. It does not, by itself, describe the type of movement, the level of finish, or the positioning of a watch: these criteria must be examined separately. To understand what this designation covers and how we approach it in our selection, consult our Swiss Made Excellence page.

08 · Durability

Proper watch care

Mechanical Watch

Follow the manufacturer's recommended service interval rather than a universal rule. An abnormal deviation, a significant drop in power reserve, or irregular operation may warrant inspection.

Quartz Watch

Replace a dead battery without unnecessary delay. If the case is opened, it is advisable to have the seals checked and, for a watch intended for water use, its water resistance.

Cleaning

Use a soft cloth. For a more thorough cleaning, consider the strap material and the watch's water resistance level before using water.

Magnetism & Shocks

Avoid unnecessary shocks and strong magnetic fields, which can affect certain mechanical movements. A sudden deviation may sometimes require diagnosis or demagnetization.

09 · Before purchasing

The checklist for comparing two watches

  1. Movement: quartz, automatic, or manual? What is the power reserve if it's mechanical?
  2. Dimensions: do the diameter, lug-to-lug, and thickness match your wrist?
  3. Crystal: sapphire, mineral, or acrylic?
  4. Water Resistance: does it truly match your activities?
  5. Functions: do you need a date, a chronograph, a second time zone, or do you prefer a cleaner dial?
  6. Strap: is it suitable for your use and easily adjustable or replaceable?
  7. Style: finally, choose the watch you will genuinely want to wear, not just the one with the longest spec sheet.

You now know the essentials

Use these criteria to compare models in our selection, then consult each watch's product page for its exact specifications.

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Movement Illustration Credits
Ronda 6004-D: VSchagow, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.
ETA 2824: Guy Sie, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0.
Manual movement type 6497: Guy Sie, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0.
The illustrated movements serve as educational examples and do not constitute an indication of the caliber present in each reference sold by Octant Watch.